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Bundikin · Discovery city

Varanasi

The city of light · Uttar Pradesh, India

Among the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities

Varanasi — also called Kashi, the luminous — has been a Hindu pilgrimage city for well over two thousand years. The Ganges here is not scenery. Ghats step the city down into the river for bathing, prayer, and farewell. Dawn is a working hour: lamps, oars, and silk the color of a wick that has not yet been lit.

Buddhist, Jain, and Islamic histories share the same river bend. Weavers still make Banarasi brocade. The old lanes are a compression of shrines, workshops, and tea. Nothing about a morning here is in a hurry, and the river does not accept a shortcut.

Things worth knowing

  • The name Kashi is tied to the idea of light; Varanasi sits between the Varuna and Assi rivers.
  • The Dashashwamedh and Manikarnika ghats are among the most famous riverfront steps — one for gathering, one for last rites.
  • Banarasi silk brocade has dressed weddings and courts for centuries; the looms are still in the old neighborhoods.
  • Sarnath, a few miles away, is where the Buddha is said to have given his first teaching after enlightenment.
  • Boat lamps on the Ganges before sunrise are not decoration. They are how a city keeps yesterday's light in the water.

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